Gasherbrum II 8035 m. climbing history and routes
Gasherbrum II or K4 is the 13th highest mountain in the world, 5th highest in the Pakistan, 4th highest in the Karakoram range and It is the 3rd highest peak of the Gasherbrum massif.
Basecamp 5300 m
Camp 1 5900 m
Camp 2 6550 m
Camp 3 6900 m or 7100 m
Camp 4 optional 7300 m
The South West Ridge Route
The climbing legs on Gasherbrum II certainly favour mountaineers attempting their first big peak. Her slopes are not steep , or as technical. There are few objective dangers, and the camp sites are placed in mostly flat sections.
To get to the base of the route on G2 all teams first traverse the small icefall outside of basecamp. The icefall is not particularly unstable or unsafe, though there are a couple of steep sections to be negotiated. The normal traverse time is around 7 hours.
The South West Ridge
Base-camp – Camp 3
One of the great advantages of climbingthe SW ridge is that it’s quite hard to get lost or off trail, even in inclement weather. The first sections of the ridge up to C2 are the steepest, and are fixed with rope. Climbing times between all 3 camp sites are a very manageable 4-6 hours on average.
Camp 3 is sited just above and to the right of the top of the ridge, again in a relatively well sheltered space, at just under 7000m. Above the tents loom the impressive rock pyramid leading to the summit.
1934 G erman expedition reached 6250 m.
1956 July 7 first ascent by Austrians Fritz Moravec, Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart from Southwest Ridge.
1982 July 24 Reinhold Messner along with Nazir Sabir and Sher Khan, climbed the peak via the Southwest Ridge.
1984 July Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander reached both Gasherbrum II and Gasherbrum I without returning to base camp, in alpine style.
1984 August a French team summit and first descent by ski
1986 August a Slovene sclimbed in only 22 hours from the base to the peak with 10 hours rest at 5900 m.
1996 July Jean-Christophe Lafaille climbed Gasherbrum I and II in 4 days, without stopping at Base Camp in between.
2006 Sebastian Haag and Benedikt Böhm climbed Gasherbrum II twice within a week.
2007 Karl Unterkircher and Daniele Bernasconi climbed in alpine style from North Face through China.
2011 Feb 2 Cory Richards, Denis Urubko, and Simone Moro became the first to ascend in winter. Richards, who was the first American to climb an eight-thousander in winter, filmed the expedition, which he turned into the film Cold.